For Whom the Bells Toll: Kodagu’s Malethirike Shrine and its Living Legends

Malethirike shrine, located near the villages of Karada and Palangala in Kodagu. Photo by Mookonda Kushalappa.

Like many traditional Kodava shrines, Malethirike has no walls or roof. Worship takes place in the open, amidst nature. Five lingas—cylindrical symbols of Shiva—are placed at the base of large trees. A forest stairway leads devotees to this sacred spot.

The shrine is linked to the Pandavas, who are believed to have worshipped here. Locals point to a nearby open space said to have served as their kitchen, particularly that of Bhima. Today, the annual feast is prepared at this very location.

The five lingas may also represent the pancha bhootas—earth, water, fire, air and ether.

Legend and History

Local lore connects the site to conflicts between Kodagu and Mysore in the 18th century. It is said that when Tipu Sultan’s forces pursued Kodava militia up the hill, a swarm of wild bees attacked the advancing army midway, forcing them to retreat. Weapons left behind were later used by locals.

Relics such as a broken sword and a cannonball are preserved as testimony to this legend.

Historical records also mention the shrine. The Manual of Coorg (1870) refers to Maletambira of Chomamale as an elder brother of the deity Igguthappa. The shrine lies within a devakad (sacred grove), protected from human interference and associated with deified ancestral spirits.

The Kodava text Pattole Palame (1924) also refers to this deity, known as Thumbe Male Devayya.

Mystery of the Bells

A local account speaks of estate workers who once climbed the hill on a windless afternoon. As they sat smoking beedis, they suddenly heard the bells ringing—despite no breeze and no one present. Frightened, they rushed back and reported the incident.

Visits to the Shrine

Reaching Malethirike can be challenging. The road up the hill is steep and, in parts, badly worn. At the entrance, marked by pillars, visitors remove their footwear near a small Ayyappa shrine.

The actual shrine is accessed via a stairway branching off the road near the summit—easy to miss for first-time visitors.

Small ponds dot the hilltop, adding to its serene atmosphere. The temple remains open from 10 a.m. to about 2:30 p.m., with daily pooja conducted by the priest. Payasa made of rice and jaggery is offered to devotees.

The Annual Festival

The annual festival is held around March 14.

Preparations begin from March 1 with deva katt, during which families associated with the temple observe strict codes—avoiding harm, refraining from cutting plants, and maintaining discipline in speech and conduct.

During the festival, designated families from the Kadiyatnad region carry rice up the hill on decorated bulls. The rice is used to prepare payasa, served to devotees.

Traditional dishes like chakke para (jackfruit pickle) and kuyya kool (rice with nirenge leaves) are prepared over firewood and served on kuvale leaves. Some devotees enter trance-like states during rituals.

The day concludes with a communal meal, reinforcing the deep cultural and spiritual bonds tied to the shrine.

(Parts of this article, written by the author, were first published in Deccan Herald on March 26, 2026, under the headline “A hilltop shrine and its living traditions”. The full article is now published in The Kodagu Express.)

(The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of The Kodagu Express. The publication is not responsible for the accuracy of opinions, interpretations, or any errors or omissions.)

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